Husky Head Tutorial

[Temperance]

I had some scrap black and white fabric lying around that's just large enough to make into a head, so I figured I'd do one for fun.  I decided to photograph the process and break down my steps so you can see how I make my heads.  This is a work in progress, so I will continue to update until the head is finished.

Step 1)
I make a frame out of cardboard based on my own head.  This is the same frame I used for the Okami head.  I draw some guidelines for where, approximately, the eyes and nose will go.


As you can see, it fits my head pretty good.  I keep my cardboard frames so I can use them again next time I need to make a certain type animal head.


Step 2)
The Cardboard frame is covered in metal mesh.  You can buy these in rolls in most Craft stores.  I got mine at Michael's.  I press the mesh as close to the cardboard frame as possible... however it doesn't have to be perfect, most of the final shaping will be done in the paper mache stages.


Step 3)
Now the messy work begins!  I paper mache a few layers, just enough to give a basic sturdy shape, minor shaping done at this stage. Most of the final shaping will be done in further layers of paper mache.  I leave this head to dry overnight.


Step 4)
My first layer of paper mache has dried enough to remove from it's cardboard mold.  I draw the basic reference points on the head: eyes, nose, mouth/jawline, and some of the markings, so I have a good idea of what needs to be shaped in further paper mache layers.  For ease of removal, I cut the jaw off using an exacto knife, then carefully remove the head from the cardboard base.  The mesh prevents the cardboard from getting too soaked in Paper mache, so it's usually not much of a struggle.


This as far as I am now, I will post new steps as I continue to work on the head.

[Temperance]

Step 5)
Another layer of Paper Mache, this time I have done shaping, specifically around the brows and the muzzle.  The cheeks were evened out with padding for a more symetrical feel.


Step 6)
After the paper mache dries a second time, I paper mache the inside of the mask.  This adds some extra rigidity, as well it provides a smoothing layer between the mask wearer and the wire mesh.

[Lady Serpent]

Neat series of pictures, mate.  Thanks for posting them up.

I find paper-mache has some definate good points, and some definate shortfalls.  It's cheap, for one, which is great for many costume builders on a budget.  It's also easy to shape and takes paint or glue fairly easily.

It does tend to be quite heavy compared to other materials, and perhaps the biggest drawback is durability; it can weather and crack over time and simply isn't able to hold up to much abuse unless it's quite thick, which again lends itself to heaviness.  You also can't get it wet in any form unless you've sealed it very well with a waterproof sealant (one layer just won't cut it).

It looks like you've put a lot of detail into the nose/mouth area.  Looks good so far.  Are you planning on making the jaw a moving one?

Quite interesting to look at.  Please do keep posting the progress!

Cheers,
-Lady Serpent

[Temperance]

Yeah, I like using Paper Mache because I'm better at building up, then carving down.  All of my heads are sealed prior to furring which makes  them somewhat waterproof... however I cringe at letting any head getting wet aside from light cleaning.
This will be a moving jaw mask.

Anywho... on with the show...

Step 7)

On to the teeth!  I bought this great jawset online (http://www.auctiva.com/stores/viewstore2.aspx?id=407976&itemFilter=7).  All the teeth are cast from real skulls, so this saves a lot of meticulous carving... However alternations are needed.  The jawset I bought was cast from a Grey wolf, they were a little long, so I cut them back by about an inch.  Also, since my mask jaw is wider than an actual Wolf, I has to cut the teeth again just behind the front row of teeth and glue them in place on the jaw.  Before gluing the teeth into place I glued a layer of Vynil around the edge of the mouth.  These will be the lips.  Leather works well for lips also, however I have made a lot of previous costumes with Vynil, so I have a lot of scraps which I save for other costuming purposes. I used a air-dry clay to fill in the space between the teeth and make them look smooth and natural.


Step 8 )

Now that the teeth are in place and smoothed out, it is time to add the tongue.  Using the same air-dry clay I carved a tongue and roughed it a little with sandpaper to make it look more like a real tongue.  The clay tongue is them placed in the mouth.  I raised the tongue a little by using some wire mesh underneath so it would be visible in the jaw.


Step 9)

Since my last paper mache layer covered up all my guidelines, I had to re-draw them in. I also cut out the triangles for the tear duct screens of the mask, this is what I will see out of when the mask is complete.  I used the air-dry clay to carve a nose and fill in some minor bits to make everything smooth and symetrical.
The lower jaw was held in place as a guidance while I glued the top portion of the jawset in place.  The upper jaw area is very rarely seen, so I cut most of it off.  Just the front teeth from the jawset are used.  Now my head is set aside to dry again before I begin furring.

[Lady Serpent]

CarnFX!  Schreken's a friend of mine; wonderful artist.   I'm using the same jawset in my current costume, and I have a wolverine fullsuit that was actually made by her.

Gorgeous choice.  Have a feeling its going to look fantastic when it's finished; very much looking forward to seeing the progress.

Cheers,
-Lady Serpent

[Temperance]

Step 10)
My air-dry clay has dried and it's time to get painting! I painted the nose and mouth, then once dry the entire head is coated in a clear protecting varnish.


Step 11)
Once the varnish has dried, it's time to fit this sucker to my melon.  Elastic wraps around the back to keep the mask snug to my face, and elastic bands attach the jaw to the mask. As long as the mask stays tight to my face I can move my jaw to make the husky jaw move.
I took some test photos to make sure everything works well.  Woof Woof!

[Temperance]

Getting intothehome stretch now...we're almost done with this head!

Step 12)
Technically Step 12 started before the head began. I make my eyes out of clear resin which require about a week to fully cure. It's a pain in the butt, it smells and I can never get the mixture right for the ratio of Resin to catalyst. Out of the 10 eyes I cast this time, only 4 of them were suitable for use. Resin is kind of a game of practice and finding the right process that works best for you,this was only my second time for casting resin, so I assume I'll get better at it in time.
I painted the backs of the eyes with regular acrylic craft paint. I decided to go with a nice smoky blue.
Once the paint had dried I glued some fabric in placefor eyelids. It's a nice finishing touch to the eye and helps it blend better into the fur.


Step 13)
The eyes are glued into place on the mask, and the screens are added to cover the mask tear duct holes. I use black pantyhose, stretched tight and glued around the eye.
The head is then duct taped,and guidelines drawn for where the markings are.  I draw arrows to remind myself which way the fur goes.The duct tape is cut off and used as a pattern which I cut out of Faux fur. 


Step 14)
The fur is glued in place with hot glue.  As you can see from the picture on the right, this guy is pretty shaggy, so I use an electric clipper to shave his muzzle and around his eyes.


Step 15)
I use some black paint and a paintbrush to add some shading detail around his muzzle.


Only 2 more steps left!  Eee!

[Temperance]

Step 16)
Time to add the ears.  I have a basic Wolf ear template that I use. I cut out one white and one black for Left and right, and sew together.  Inside the ear I cut outthe wolf ear shape from Sheet foam and glue to the inside of the ear for added stiffness.  The ears are then glued to the head.  The long fur around the ear covers up any hot glue.


Step 17)
The back of the head must be hand sewn to the mask. I made this template to use; first I made a test pattern with scrap fabric, then copied it to a sheet of mylar. I keep this template to use whenever I need to make a head.

[Temperance]

Finished!  Yaaay!
Now isn't he a handsome fellow.

[Fenris]

The fur is great but I think you might be a little bit off on the moulding. ^_^

The nose is a bit too sloped...

but good work on the tut...

[Temperance]

Agreed.  Ah well, He's only my third head.... practice practice ^_^;

[Fenris]

But of course! Once I get on the workforce again, I'll probably start creating my own suits. Or just go to more conventions. I'm torn between the two.

[Temperance]

why not both?

[Fenris]

Well, having a cub takes up most of my money... and it will be moreso as he grows up. So I can only do one thing or the other.

[Temperance]

True. 
Admittedly I'm a bit of a pack rat, I keep bizzare bits and pieces of stuff to use in cosplay, and push over old ladies to dig through the cheap bolt end bin at the fabric store, so I always have lots of materials to play with.  I costume on the cheap til I am ready to make a commitment to try for an expensive outfit.

^_^ I just want more fursuit makers to trade ideas with

[Fenris]

*nods* I'll probably start making fursuits sometime down the road... just not sure when. I do want to go to many cons though. It would be a plus for the ezine Wally and I are starting.

[Temperance]

Cons are fun too.. I usually only get to hit the local cons and chat with the same old comic con faces every time.  I've done San Diego twice, but otherwise Calgary, Edmonton, Calgary, Calgary, Ad Nauseum...

[Fenris]

I hit up Otafest every year... that's about it.

[Temperance]

Well then maybe we've met.  I'm ususally selling in the vendors area at otafest.  I've been selling cat ears/cat collars/chobits ears the last 3 years of otafest with my husband.

[Fenris]

I'm usually outside actually. Rarely go into the vendors. Last year I got stopped every 5 seconds to get a picture taken.